Building a PC
The only surefire method to ensure that your gaming PC can fulfill all of your specific preferences is to build it from the ground up. You’ll be able to play the games you want at the frame rates you desire if you determine everything that goes into your PC from the power supply up. Furthermore, a home-built PC enables for updates as technology advances, your gaming preferences and needs change, or your budget allows.
Though building a PC may appear daunting, you may discover that it is simpler than you think, especially when broken down into manageable phases. That’s why we’ve put together this step-by-step guide to building your first gaming PC, replete with advice from experienced builders.
Installing the CPU
Place the motherboard on your work surface after removing it from its antistatic box. Locate the CPU socket, which will be protected by a plastic cap. A little arrow can be found in one corner of the plastic cap, or more typically, on the socket itself. Take note of where this arrow is located.
A little metal lever can be found next to the CPU socket. To open the socket tray, press down on the lever and gradually pull it to the side (away from the socket).
Remove the CPU from its box by opening it. When handling the CPU, use extreme caution because both the CPU and the CPU socket are extremely vulnerable to physical damage. Never contact the pins on the bottom of the chip with your fingers since they can introduce dust or oil, and try not to touch the top of the chip either.
An arrow can be found in one of the CPU’s corners. Place the CPU into the socket by aligning this arrow with the arrow on the socket. Lower the retaining lever and press it back into place once the CPU has been carefully inserted. It may need some force to lower the lever, but not to seat the CPU!
Helpful Notes:
You don’t need to remove the plastic cover because the strain of the installation will cause it to snap out when you install the CPU. If you attempt to remove the cap on your own, you risk injuring the delicate pins underneath. The CPU only fits in one direction and does not require any force to be seated. To seat the CPU, gently move it into the socket, but do not jostle, shove, snap, or otherwise force it into the socket.
Installing An M.2 Drive (if you have one)
It’s an excellent time to install an M.2 SSD if you have one. Locate the M.2 slot on your motherboard first. It’s a little horizontal slot with a small screw on the opposite side. Consult the user manual that came with your motherboard if you can’t find it, if you find several M.2 slots, or if you plan on adding more than one M.2 SSD.
Using a cross-tip screwdriver, remove the little screw. Don’t let it slip away.
Gently slide the M.2 SSD into the slot. When fully seated, it will stand at a 35-degree angle from the motherboard. To secure the SSD, push it down and replace the little screw.
If your motherboard doesn’t detect the freshly installed M.2 SSD as storage, you may need to manually configure it in BIOS (for BIOS instructions, reference your motherboard’s user manual).
CPU Cooler Installation
CPU coolers come in a variety of shapes and sizes. We recommend consulting the handbook that came with your CPU cooler for detailed installation instructions.
A mounting bracket is required for some coolers. A bracket may come pre-installed on the motherboard; you may need to remove it if your cooler doesn’t require one, or replace it if your cooler requires a different bracket. This should be done before inserting the motherboard into the casing.
Thermal paste is pre-applied on the conductive material (which sits on the CPU) on some coolers, but not on others. If your cooler does not come with pre-applied thermal paste, you will need to apply it manually before seating it. Squeeze a small dot (no larger than a grain of rice) of thermal paste onto the CPU’s center. Then, set the cooler on top of the CPU; the pressure will evenly distribute the thermal paste.
Key Points:
The first squeeze of thermal paste should be onto a spare piece of paper, just in case a large glob escapes.
If your cooler came with pre-applied thermal paste and you wish to change it out, remove it with 90 percent isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. we recommend an automotive-grade paper towel.
Tighten the screws in a cross pattern to ensure equally distributed pressure when mounting the cooler to the motherboard. If you get stuck, your handbook will most likely walk you through the process step by step.
Don’t get too worked up if you botch up the installation. Remove the thermal paste (from both the CPU heat spreader and the cooler) and reapply it before reinstalling.
RAM Install
Determine the number of RAM slots on your motherboard (most have either two or four). Simply snap the RAM into place if you’re planning to fill all of the available RAM slots. If you won’t be using all of the RAM slots, examine the user handbook to determine the proper configuration and fill the slots accordingly.
The notch between the gold fingers isn’t perfectly centered. Using this notch to establish which side is up vs down, double-check that the RAM is properly aligned.
While RAM is very simple to install, it is not always flawless the first time. If you can’t get your computer to switch on, the first thing you should do is reinstall the RAM. Some motherboards contain a captive tab (one that cannot be moved) that aids in installation. Every motherboard has at least one moveable tab, which normally snaps into place and attaches to an indent on the RAM’s side.
Test Startup Outside Of The Case (Optional)
You might wish to conduct a brief test run of your components now that you’ve installed the CPU and CPU cooler to make sure they all work. Once everything is mounted in the chassis, this test becomes considerably more difficult to do (and troubleshoot). Install the GPU and connect everything to the power supply (see part below if you don’t know how to install the GPU). Make sure the power supply is connected to both the CPU (8pin and 24pin) and the GPU before plugging it in and turning it on.
Power buttons are seen on certain higher-end motherboards, but they are not common. If a power button isn’t visible, look for the power switch pins, which are little pairs of prongs protruding from colorful nodules. It’s possible that the power switch pins will be labeled (e.g., “PWR ON”). To turn the motherboard on, tap both power switch pins with a screwdriver at the same time.
You should be able to detect whether any of your components are dead or not working properly now. If your motherboard flashes lights or beeps at you, it’s probably trying to communicate with you. Some motherboards contain a two-digit post code display that can help you figure out what’s wrong. Consult your user manual to figure out what it’s attempting to tell you. Connect a display to the GPU if your motherboard does not have a post code display and see if your system “posts” or starts up and displays the motherboard’s logo.
When you’re done with the test, turn off the power supply and wait for any LEDs on the motherboard to turn off to make sure there’s no power left in the system. Then, before moving on to the next step, uninstall the GPU and unplug any power cables.
Power Supply Bolt-On
Set the PSU’s cables aside after unpacking it (or unplugging it from the components if you’re doing a test run) (if you can).
Examine your case to determine where the PSU should be installed (most likely near the back) and how it should be oriented. The PSU should be oriented so that its fan is facing outside the chassis (via a vent). You can put the PSU upside down if your case has a bottom vent, as long as the bottom vent receives adequate airflow when the PC is built.
If your case doesn’t have any vents, ensure sure the PSU is mounted with the fan facing up (into the case) and that it has enough space.
Using the four screws that come with the PSU, secure the PSU to the case.
If you’re utilizing a non-modular or semi-modular power supply, now is the time to route the cables through the case to their final destination (clean up your cables if your box has them).
Installing The Motherboard
If your motherboard came with an unattached I/O shield, a rectangular sheet of metal with cutouts for the motherboard’s ports, snap it into place at the rear of your case (making sure it’s oriented correctly). I/O shields can have sharp edges, so keep an eye on your fingertips.
You can now install the motherboard after the I/O shield has been installed. Check that all of your wires are threaded through to the correct location before placing the motherboard (first line it with the I/O shield). Install the first screw, the center screw, with a cross-tip screwdriver to secure the motherboard. Make sure your motherboard isn’t dragged across the chassis’ standoffs.
The number of screws required to mount the motherboard varies depending on the model, but a full-size ATX motherboard typically requires nine. Fill in all screw holes that are available.
Connect the motherboard to the power supply. An 8-pin CPU connector is located towards the top of the board, and a 24-pin connector is located on the side.
Check to see if the casing has motherboard standoffs placed before mounting the motherboard. These are normally in the shape of a nut with threading on the end. Remove any superfluous standoffs.
GPU Install
On your motherboard, look for the PCIe x16 slot. It will be the longest PCIe slot, and it may be colored differently than the others. If your motherboard includes more than one PCIe x16 slot, see the user manual to see if one slot should be prioritized over the others. If more than one slot is available, choose one based on where other components will be installed. You want your GPU to have some breathing room.
To accommodate your GPU’s I/O (HDMI, DisplayPort, DVI, etc.) and make it accessible to the exterior of the chassis, you may need to remove I/O covers (little metal tabs blocking the back panel of your case).
Remove the GPU from its antistatic package and carefully line it with the rear retention bracket as well as the slot itself, before gently pushing it into the PCIe x16 slot (you may hear a click). Should you need to reseat the GPU, the PCIe tab on the motherboard may become locked.
Secure the GPU to the back of the case with one or two screws once it is fully seated. Connect the auxiliary power connectors to the power supply if your GPU requires them.
Storage Drive Installation
First and foremost, examine your situation. When it comes to drive bays, every case is a little different.
Inside your case, you should be able to find a stack of bays of various sizes. They could have small plastic switches, indicating that they are tool-free bays, or they could just resemble metal brackets.
2.5-inch (HDDs and SSDs) and 3.5-inch (hard drives and solid state drives) are the most common storage sizes (HDDs). Most 3.5-inch bays can accept 2.5-inch drives, but not the other way around (some 3.5-inch bays include trays that aren’t built for 2.5-inch drives but can still fit 2.5-inch bays). Larger bays, such as those for optical drives, may also be visible in your case. These are normally found near the top of the case, near the front.
Each bay will have its own plastic lever or switch if you have tool-free bays. You should be able to pull out the tray if you open or unlock the lever or switch. Place your drive in the tray; some 3.5-inch trays are made to fit 2.5-inch trays. If this is the case, you’ll need to secure the 2.5-inch drive to the 3.5-inch tray to prevent it from moving.
Return the tray to its original position in the bay. It ought to snap into place.
If you don’t have tool-free bays, you’ll observe a metal bracket with slats or holes (it’ll be large, like a sheet). To install a drive in one of these “bays,” just slip the drive between the metal bracket and the case’s side and secure it with a screw. Use as many screws as the chassis manual recommends, but most drives will be good with only two screws if you don’t have enough.
Connect your drives to the motherboard (using a SATA cable that should have come with either your drive or your motherboard) and the power supply once they’re all in place.
Set Up OS
Now is the moment to prepare your operating system (OS) on a USB flash drive if you haven’t already. (For further information, see the section on operating systems under “PREP 3: Select your components” above.)
Turn on your computer by plugging in the USB flash drive containing your operating system, as well as a monitor, mouse, and keyboard.
The first screen you see will instruct you to hit a key to access the BIOS or system configuration. To access BIOS, press the key. (If the screen flashes off too quickly for you to see the key, see the user manual for your motherboard.)
First, double-check that all of your components are properly installed and recognized. Find the page in BIOS that displays your PC’s system information (various motherboards have different BIOS layouts, but you should be able to find one) and double-check that the system recognizes everything you’ve installed so far.
Next, navigate through BIOS until you locate the Boot page (may be called “Boot Order” or “Boot Priority”). Change the boot order to put your flash drive first and the drive you wish to install your OS on second (if you’re using an SSD as a boot drive, you’ll want to do it here).
Your computer should be restarted. The OS installer will appear after your computer boots from the USB. Finish the installation by following the instructions.
Create the OS installation ahead of time as a pro tip.
Troubleshooting: If your computer won’t switch on at all, you may have a power supply issue.
Check to make sure all cords, including power cables, are connected if the PC turns on but you don’t see anything on the screen or it doesn’t seem to start up.
If you’re having trouble entering BIOS using your keyboard, it’s most likely your keyboard that’s broken. Before you panic, double-check that your peripherals are in functioning order.
Wrapping It All Up
Congratulations on finishing your construction (especially if this is your first time) if you’ve made it this far through our instructions! The task, on the other hand, does not have to end here.
The best part about constructing your own gaming PC is that it is never truly completed. As hardware advances, a bespoke PC’s ability to be customized is practically endless, and your own rig can be as up-to-date as you want it to be based on your demands and budget.
Keep these options in mind the next time you check the recommended specifications for a new game you wish to play. The PC you just created will be the foundation for all of your future gaming adventures, and fine-tuning your components is all part of the fun of having one.
Consider turning your gaming PC into a full-fledged battlestation now that you know how to create one. You can also learn advanced techniques like overclocking your CPU to get the most out of your setup.
For a First Person View of a PC build, check out this Linus Tech Tips video.